However, most Daikin air conditioners have a low wattage crankcase heater to keep the compressor warm and ready to start immediately. If the compressor is cold when starting it can lead to damage, so we recommend that you turn on the unit at the powerpoint or fuse box at least 12 hours before starting it to prevent possible damage.
- During hot weather, turn your air conditioner on early rather than working it harder once your home warms up.
- Adjust the louvres on split system air conditioners so they disperse air downwards when heating and upwards when cooling.
- Clean the air filter regularly.
- Check the energy star labels on your air conditioner – the more stars, the more energy efficient.
As Mitsubishi Electric Air Conditioning Diamond Dealers, we can supply, install and offer ongoing support for your Mitsubishi air conditioner.
10 good reasons to choose a Daikin Specialist Dealer
Fallon Solutions have been a Daikin Authorised Dealer for many years and being one of the largest in Brisbane means we can pass on some pretty good savings.
The refrigerant is the special liquid which flows through the indoor unit to absorb the excess heat indoors. It thens evaporates and is carried through narrow copper tubes to the outdoor unit as a gas, where the heat is released into the atmosphere. Thus , the gas becomes a liquid again and flows back to the indoor unit, where air is fanned over it and out into the room. This cycle is repeated until the preset temperature is reached.
Therefore, heat pump units eliminate the need for a heating system and allow you to cool the heat with the same unit, with savings in costs and energy throughout the year.
- Where it is to be installed
- The size of the room
- Is there need for a fan which includes a light
- The room decor
- Blade performance needed
- The location of your house
- Is a remote control fan needed.
- 4-9pm at night.
- 6-9am in the morning.
- You are purchasing a property that has been occupied
- The property is more that 25 years old
- If it is more that 5 years since one has been done
- If you are concerned about how any of the equipment may have been installed
Micro Inverters (AC)Designed to converter DC solar panels straight into usable ac power from directly underneath the panels. Most are installed with one panel for each micro inverter. If you have 10 panels then you will most likely have 10 micro inverters. The cabling required for micro inverters is AC and a safer option with less likelihood of fires through DC arcing from string inverters. Once the power leaves the inverter it adds all the micro inverters in the string and goes back to the switchboards to run all the loads in the house. This is newer technology and will produce a greater yield from individual inverters then a string inverter controlling all panels. A premium product but has a increased price tag to reflect the benefits of the system.
String Inverters (DC)A central inverter located normally on a wall. This inverter required a string of panels to be connected on the roof and ran down to the inverter. The inverter then converters all the DC power from the panels and turns if into AC usable power. This is the morn conventional manor and the way solar has worked for many decades. It used DC cabling through the roof and required additional requirements on top of the micro inverter systems. This is a more cost efficient and proven system.
Solar PowerSolar Power is the use of Photovoltaic cells that use the direct sunlight to move electrons on the cells of the solar panels and allow voltage to be produced. This voltage is then converted into usage power.
Solar Hot WaterIs the use of a flat solar panel or evacuated tubes to push water through a seels system and use the suns radiation to heat the panels or tubes to convert cold water into warm / really hot water which is then sorted for use at a later date.
Is this subsidy in danger of ending soon, or being scrapped entirely?
Well – current legislation means the solar rebate started to reduce by one fifteenth every year from Jan 2017 until it drops to zero in 2031. At this point, there’s no confirmed danger of the panel rebate being scrapped entirely for the foreseeable future.
While the subsidy seems safe for now, what most people aren’t aware of is the dollar value of this ‘solar rebate’ can be significantly reduced at any time if demand for solar systems suddenly increases along with other factors coming into play.
How so? I go over the exact mechanism (known as STC creation) further down the page, but in a nutshell, the subsidy system is designed to ‘self regulate’.
What that means is that if the market for solar power runs too hot, the value of the ‘rebate’ may reduce in step with a thing called the ‘STC price’. The STC price can be anywhere from $0 to $40. In other words, $40 is the highest value it is allowed to go to by law.
The higher the STC price the more ‘rebate’ you get.
At the moment, the value of the solar rebate is around $38 per STC. This translates into a rebate of roughly $525 per kW installed. But situations can arise where the value is pushed down.
How low could the subsidy go? The lowest STC value was some years ago when it hit about $17. If it hits that again, the ‘rebate’ would be worth under $221 per kW installed – a greatly reduced subsidy.
Just to be clear, no-one can pretend to know what the STC price will be next week or next year. All we do know is that it can not go any higher than $40.
The solar rebate that is not officially a rebate!
To make things confusing, the current “rebate” for anyone buying a solar system of up to 100kW is called the STC program. Which stands for Small-scale Technology Certificate. The government says that this should not be called a “solar rebate”.
From the Clean Energy Regulator website:
Under the Small-scale Renewable Energy Scheme the reduction in the cost of your solar panel is not a rebate. You will not qualify for any Government-based financial recompense at the completion of any process relating to STCs.
I think what our government friends are trying to get across is that the thousands of dollars you get off your solar system price (usually by assigning the rights to its STCs to your installer) does not actually come from the government.
It is a government program, but it compels other people to buy your certificates. So it is a government run scheme, using other people’s money to provide the subsidy.
Now, you could argue that all government subsidy and incentive schemes use other people’s money!
But I’m not gonna pick a fight with the Clean Energy Regulator (I’ve picked enough fights with the content on this website thank you very much) so from now on I will try to refer to the rebate as the “solar financial incentive” then!
The solar rebate financial incentive subsidises the upfront cost of installing a solar power system and is not means-tested in any way. The only criteria for claiming it are:
1) Your PV system is less than 100kW in size.
2) You get it installed and designed by a Clean Energy Council accredited professional.
3) You use solar panels and inverters that are approved for use in Australia by the Clean Energy Council.
Note: Do not confuse this ‘solar rebate’ with the Feed-in Tariff (FiT). The FiT is a subsidy where electricity retailers pay you for the electricity your solar system exports to the grid.
What is the rebate financial incentive worth to me?
I’m guessing what you really want to know is:
- a)How much can I get off the price of a solar system?
- b)How much will a solar power system cost me now, after the subsidy?
The short answer is:
If you want a 6.6kW system (for example), then you can get approx $3,465 off the total cost of the system in subsidies (The ‘rebate’ is worth roughly $525 per kW, so 6.6kW x $525 = $3,465). You will get a proportionally bigger ‘rebate’ for larger systems, and less for smaller.
(If you are confused by this talk of “kW” (kilowatt) then there is a good explanation here)
So how much does this mean you will have to pay for a solar panel system?
Below are some ballpark figures for costs after the solar panel rebate. They will vary either way depending on the brand of panels and inverters each supplier uses, and their overheads, but if these prices are way out of your expectations, then solar panels may not be for you right now.
Keep in mind that adding the system cost to your mortgage can be surprisingly affordable if you take rising electricity costs into account – there is a solar payback calculator here for you to make your own mind up.
|Typical cost of an installed 6.6 kW solar system:||$9,500|
|Government Solar Rebate Financial Incentive:||$3,465|
|Cost to you for 6.6kW of solar power:||Approx $6,035|
If you are interested in the financial payback of a system such as the 6.6kW system above, use our solar payback calculator – it takes into account rising electricity prices and your state’s feed-in tariff.
How the solar rebate financial incentive works
The feds have cleverly designed the rebate financial incentive to actually cost the government very little. Sneaky subsidy eh?
Here’s the subsidy scheme in a (8 part) nutshell:
1) The government creates virtual pieces of paper called Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs).
2) The government compels filthy fossil fuel generators to either build a certain amount of renewable generation (wind/solar power) or buy the right to the other people’s renewable energy systems in the form of RECs.
3) When you go and buy a solar power system for your roof, the government gives you a certain number of RECs depending on how big your system is, how much sun your part of Australia gets and the installation date.
4) The special type of RECs you get for a residential solar system are called “Small Scale Technology Certificates” (STCs).
5) You (or more likely your installer, who may also charge a small fee for handling the certificates) sell the STCs to the filthy fossil fuel generators. The value of the STCs is used to offset the upfront cost of the solar system purchase.
6) The STC price is a bit like a share price – it fluctuates on the open market depending on supply and demand. For example, when the solar energy industry is really booming then the STC price can drop.
7) You can see the current market price of a STC here. The blue line on the graph shows STC spot prices.
8) Almost all solar power system prices you see advertised will already have the solar panel rebate financial incentive included in the pricing – so the cost after the subsidy.
Why you should consider getting quotes for solar sooner rather than later
As mentioned above, the amount of ‘solar rebate’ you can claim depends on the current market price of an STC. At a market price of $38 (for example), the ‘rebate’ is worth roughly $525 per kW installed. However, in times of high demand for solar panel installations, lots of STCs are created.
When supply of STCs increases too much, the STC price can decrease and the subsidy reduces – supply and demand – gotta love economics 101!
Some years back, when the government really looked like it was going to scrap the solar rebate entirely, demand for system installations caused the price of STCs to drop to $17.00.
So, if you bought a 6.6kW system today, you’d be eligible for a ‘rebate’ of $3,465 (6.6kW x $525 = $3,300). However, if demand for solar panels goes up too much and the STC price drops to $17.00 again, you’d only be entitled to a ‘rebate’ of around $1,458 for the exact same system.
If you get 3 free quotes for solar now, you’ll be locking in the current ‘rebate’ based on the current STC price – but if you wait, the STC price could drop and significantly reduce the savings from the subsidy you can claim.
Other things you should know about the subsidy
1) The amount of solar panel ‘rebate’ you can claim depends on where you live:
The lower the number the more subsidy cash you get!
Here are some examples for the approximate STC value for a 6.6kW solar system based on a $38 STC price:
Zone 1: incentive = $4,066
Zone 2: incentive = $3,852
Zone 3: incentive = $3,466
Zone 4: incentive = $2,971